WE ARE NOT VETS. We mention medicines for information only, but only your vet decides the dose. Never give your dog any medicine — especially not human medicine — without asking your vet first.
⚠️ Educational only · Not veterinary advice

Information from public internet sources. Always consult your veterinarian β€” especially before changing your Frenchie's diet. Our stories and opinions on this page are our personal experience with one dog, Spike. One dog is not the measure for every dog — for your dog, your vet decides.

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πŸ“‹ Quick Summary β€” 5 things to check on every bag
  • βœ… Look for a named protein first (chicken, salmon, lamb) β€” not "meat" or "by-product"
  • βœ… Our opinion: aim for protein 25-30%, fat 12-15% on a dry-matter basis
  • βœ… Look for "AAFCO feeding tests" (NOT just "formulated to meet") β€” AAFCO is the U.S. body that sets pet food nutrient standards
  • βœ… Judge the food by its maker (Step 5), not by corn, wheat, or by-products alone β€” if you suspect a food allergy, ask your vet which ingredients to avoid
  • ❌ Avoid peas / lentils in top 10 (the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, FDA, has investigated a possible link to dilated cardiomyopathy, DCM, a heart disease)

Step 1 β€” Read the First Ingredient Like a Hawk

Our opinion: the first ingredient by weight should be a named animal protein. Tufts and WSAVA go further and advise judging the manufacturer (who formulates the food, how it is tested, quality control) rather than the ingredient list.

  • βœ… Choose a food whose first ingredient is a named meat, such as chicken, beef, salmon, lamb, turkey, or duck.
  • ❌ Avoid a food whose first ingredient is only "meat", "meat meal", "animal by-products", "poultry by-product meal", or anything else generic.

Note on "meal": "Chicken meal" (named species + meal) is actually fine β€” concentrated, water-removed protein. WEBSITE FINDING (Whole Dog Journal) — UNOFFICIAL FINDING: chicken meal is preferable in the top two slots, because fresh chicken is ~70% water that boils off when kibble is made.

So "chicken" listed first PLUS "chicken meal" in the top 3 gives a stronger protein backbone than "chicken" alone.

Step 2 β€” Check the Macros (Dry-Matter Basis)

The Guaranteed Analysis on the bag is "as-fed" (water included) β€” to compare two foods fairly, ask your vet to convert both to dry matter.

Our opinion: targets for an adult Frenchie (we found no official figure for these):

  • Protein: 25-30% (AAFCO minimum 18% β€” that's a floor, not a target)
  • Fat: 12-15% β€” if he has ever had pancreatitis, your vet decides his food
  • Carbs: prefer whole grains (oats, brown rice, barley) over white potato or excessive legumes
  • Fiber: ~3-5% β€” supports stool quality, especially anal-gland prone breeds

Step 3 β€” FDA DCM Caution (Still Active 2024-2025)

The FDA paused public updates, but the link between grain-free diets high in peas, lentils, chickpeas, and other pulses and dilated cardiomyopathy is NOT closed.

2025 review (Veterinary Sciences MDPI) + Tufts Petfoodology:

  • Avoid peas/lentils/legumes in the top 10 ingredients
  • Especially when substituting for animal protein
  • 2018-2019 FDA data: 93% of the pet foods named in DCM reports contained peas and/or lentils

Watch for Protein-Splitting

When "pea protein", "pea fiber", "pea starch", and "lentils" are stacked in the top 10, the protein number is being padded with plant sources. Walk away.

Step 4 β€” Read the AAFCO Statement (CRITICAL)

Bags sold in the U.S. usually carry one of these two AAFCO statements. Food sold in other countries may follow other rules β€” ask your vet how to read the label where you live. The two statements are NOT equal:

πŸ₯‡ GOLD STANDARD

"Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that [Product] provides complete and balanced nutrition…"

= Food was actually fed to real dogs and tested.

πŸ₯ˆ WEAKER

"Formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles…"

= Lab math only. No live dog ever ate it for verification.

Always pick "feeding tests" when you can. Most boutique brands cannot afford feeding trials β€” that itself is diagnostic information.

Step 5 β€” The WSAVA Filter (Ask the Manufacturer)

World Small Animal Veterinary Association criteria:

  1. Full-time qualified nutritionist with a PhD in animal nutrition or board certification by the American College of Veterinary Nutrition (ACVN) or the European College of Veterinary and Comparative Nutrition (ECVCN)? "Consults with a vet" is NOT the same.
  2. Who formulates the recipes + their credentials?
  3. Where it's manufactured β€” own facility or co-packer? Their own facility means more quality control.
  4. What quality-control protocols? Ingredient testing for contaminants, finished-product nutrient verification, microbiological testing.
  5. Will they share full nutrient analysis beyond the guaranteed analysis on the label, including caloric density and average nutrient values?
  6. Do they publish peer-reviewed research? Major manufacturers contribute to journals. Boutique brands typically don't.

If a company won't answer these in writing, that IS your answer.

Step 6 β€” Country of Origin (Less Critical Than You Think)

A bag stamped "Made in USA" with no nutritionist on staff is WEAKER than a transparent EU brand with a board-certified ECVCN nutritionist and full quality-control disclosure.

Provenance is a marketing word; manufacturing rigor is what matters.

Step 7 β€” Toppers: Only With Your Vet

πŸ“ Our rule: nothing goes into the bowl on your own

You will often see a "75/20/5" topper formula online. It is not a veterinary guideline. WSAVA puts the limit for anything that is not complete food at 10% or less of the diet, unless your vet has balanced it. Ask your vet before you add anything — food, oil or supplement.

Step 8 β€” How to Read a Bag in 60 Seconds

  1. First three ingredients β€” named meats, no anonymous "by-products"
  2. AAFCO statement β€” feeding test or formulated-only?
  3. Top 10 ingredients β€” look for peas, lentils, and other legumes; if they are there, avoid that bag (Step 3)
  4. Guaranteed Analysis β€” protein high enough, fat in range
  5. Manufacturer name β€” Google "[brand] WSAVA full-time nutritionist"

If the answer to that last Google check is a website with a real PhD photo and credentials, that brand is a contender. If it's a marketing page with "we love dogs", keep walking.

Sources & References

  1. WSAVA Selecting Pet Food guide (Tufts). Tufts.edu
  2. AAFCO Nutrient Profiles. AAFCO.org
  3. Whole Dog Journal β€” Best Dry Dog Food criteria. Whole-Dog-Journal.com
  4. FDA DCM investigation. FDA.gov
  5. Tufts Petfoodology DCM update. Tufts.edu
  6. 2025 DCM narrative review (MDPI). MDPI.com
Spike the French Bulldog
About the Author

Spike’s Dad

Not a veterinarian — the human behind Spike, a dark brindle Frenchie, for 7+ years. What is written here is checked as carefully as we can against the sources listed above. When real life with Spike differs from the studies, we say so.

How this site is researched →

Disclaimer

This page is educational only. We are not veterinarians, we do not treat dogs and we do not diagnose. We help you understand your dog better, notice early when something is wrong and know what to ask your veterinarian. In many of these topics we are new ourselves. We collect the knowledge and opinions we find on the internet, among them studies, veterinary university websites, and owner forums, so you do not have to search for them. We check what we can, and we mark what comes from forums or unofficial sites. What to believe is for you and your veterinarian to decide. Do your own research before you act on any of it; we are not responsible for any harm that follows.

Nothing on this website replaces a veterinary consultation.
  • Never give your dog supplements or change their diet without veterinary approval, especially with health conditions.
  • Frenchies have unique health risks β€” work with a vet experienced in flat-faced breeds.